Snowscapes, Dogs and Reindeer– Some of Norway’s Wintry Best
We set out at dusk under a moon risen on a pale Arctic sky amid a cacophony of excited yaps, yelps and barks – not only from my team of six enthusiastic Alaskan huskies but also from those left behind in the dog yard.
Heading out through a stunning snowscape we wound through birch and pine trees along narrow trails, ducking the occasional stray branch – eyes scanning all the while for the dark shape of a moose. After a decent stretch, we stopped to sit round a snowy firepit, gladly warming hands and cheeks. The dogs rolled in the snow to cool down and we enjoyed piping hot reindeer soup.
How I’ve loved the last two hours – standing on the runners while my trusty dogs pulled our Norwegian sledge through the snowy pristine forest. I’m close by Dividalen National Park, about two hours’ south of Tromso in a hauntingly beautiful and unspoiled part of north Norway. My hosts have charmed me from the moment I arrived with their sincerity, open and welcoming manner and their obvious love of their lifestyle, their dogs and their eagerness to deliver the very best dog sled experience to each and every visitor. Depending on what you choose you could find yourself sleeping in their extraordinary 150 year old log cabin or in a remote hut high in the mountains on a week-long trail. You can ice-fish, snowshoe and dog sled by day or at dusk, or simply relax and soak up all things Nordic. And these are just winter activities….
Day two was all about breaking fresh trails – this time I had a team of four who never slackened once while we ploughed through knee high snow on virgin slopes. Ocean, my trusty lead-dog led us up onto the plateau – past moose hunter’s huts and farm settlements buried up to their windows in snow. Some three hours later we sped back down the mountain finishing with a final turn of speed alongside a frozen river on a narrow-wooded trail and back into the dog yard. I left the farm vowing to return with my family.
A brief stop in Oslo allowed time for a longheld ambition to visit the Fram Museum to tread the decks and peek into the cabins of the ‘Fram’ – Amundsen’s trusty ship used on his 1911 successful assault on the South Pole. The visit did not disappoint.
Then I headed north again – two hours’ flight and an hour’s drive out of Lakselv where I found a cluster of extraordinarily designed log cabins nestling in woods overlooking a 50-dog yard close to the Karasjok River. My host is a bit of a legend – despite his years of experience with dogs and long distance sled races – Finnmark, Ittarod – he is humble and kind, has a boundless talent for turning wood, stone, metal and leatherwork into the most incredible day to day items – all of which you will find in your cabin – and he and his team work tirelessly to ensure each guest’s experience is as good as it can be.
What a place – a true Arctic heaven. Here the dogs are larger and run in teams of 8-10 pulling one or two sledges expertly and with great vigour. Yet more magical scenery whizzed by – frozen rivers, gently undulating snow-covered pine forest and plenty of elusive moose tracks. We had a quality 32km/4 hour run with a welcome stop in the woods to sit by a fire and drink cocoa and toast delicious sandwiches of homemade bread, cold meats and cheese, Finnish bread, salmon and berry jam.
On my last day under a ‘pearl’ sky and intermittent snow showers, I travelled by snowmobile onto the plateau to meet the Sami and their reindeer herds. Seeing these hardy creatures up close – all furry feet and huge, graceful antlers was a scintillating experience as was hearing about the lives of the Sami today. It’s good to know they continue their culture, moving between summer and winter pastures, with all the family involved and their children eager to carry on from their elders. Note to self – never ask a Sami how many reindeer they have. It’s like being asked how much money you have in the bank! Hot drinks and smoked reindeer meat round the obligatory fire fortified us for the journey back and were a welcome distraction from the plummeting temperatures.
As we turned for our log cabin home in the woods, I left with an invitation to attend the annual reindeer migration from the plateau to the coast for summer calving and grazing. Now there’s a thought…
Only the northern lights did not perform too well on this trip – ah well, always leave something for next time.
Prices from: £2,890 per person for a week’s trip.
Dates: On request January – May 2026 and following years
Note: These are small and personal dog yards so dates sell out fast.
Footnote: We have further adventures to offer. Try ski and sail in spring, hike and sail in summer or sailing with Orcas in November. We have access to a 41ft yacht and stunning coastal lodge in a Norwegian fishing village only accessed by water – both hosted by charming locals.
Ask Fiona for details.
